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A Cool Mountain Escape: Beating the Heat in Kalinga and Apayao

  • July 18, 2024
  • Kendrick Tan
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As the brutal Philippine summer brings sweltering temperatures, savvy travelers are seeking higher altitudes for a refreshing change of climate and scenery. Tucked into the dramatic valleys and gorges of the Cordillera mountains, the provinces of Kalinga and Apayao offer the ideal cool weather getaway with a dazzling array of natural attractions and cultural experiences.

The majestic mountains of Cordillera stand tall, shrouded in mist and mystery. Their peaks reach towards the heavens, echoing ancient tales of resilience and beauty. Each ridge and valley tells a story of a land rich in culture and history, where the spirits of the ancestors dance among the clouds.

This sparsely populated region delivers an immersive adventure into northern Luzon’s remote mountain communities and untrammeled landscapes. With crisp, cool air, rushing rivers, waterfalls, pine forests, and tiered vegetable gardens carved into the hillsides, it’s a rejuvenating escape from the lowland heat and humidity.

Places to Visit and Things to Do

Kalinga’s Bangan Hill is a must, with its grassy camping areas boasting stunning views over an ocean of pine trees. The remote Tinglayan municipality allows visitors to experience the powerful Chico River thundering through a deep limestone gorge. Hire a local guide for an exhilarating canyoneering adventure through the steep-walled ravines and crystal-clear pools, or relax along the rocky riverbanks.

Just across the border in Apayao’s Kabugao valley, the towering three-tier Palaopan Falls tumbles almost 200 feet through lush tropical foliage. Other highlights include the mysterious Musuan Peak, a striking limestone formation said to be an ancient spiritual settlement, and the cascading triple-decker Anago Falls in Conner. Thrill-seekers can go whitewater rafting along the Rio Grande River.

For a glimpse into the traditional way of life, visit villages inhabited by the friendly Isnanog and Itneg tribes. Learn about their culture, see traditional weaving and woodcarving demonstrations, and witness the unique practice of dang-aw – impressive above-ground burial caves carved into rocky cliffs.

Trekking through scenic mountain trails, spelunking in ancient caves, ziplining amid pine forests, and chasing waterfalls are other popular pursuits. The more adventurous can try rock climbing on the towering limestone peaks and cliffs.

Mountain Cuisine

These rice terraces stand as a testament to the ingenuity and perseverance of the local farmers. Carved into the rugged mountainsides, these terraces showcase a harmonious blend of human labor and natural beauty.

No Kalinga-Apayao visit is complete without sampling their unique culinary heritage featuring ingredients from the forests and terraced gardens. A must-try is the tangyildukan, a rich stew of crisp fresh river fish simmered in sun-dried farmers’ rice and flavored with batuan, a wild citrus fruit. Other specialties include pineapple-smoked etag (salted pork), fiber-rich cholcholan (amaranth leaves in creamy coconut broth), and bindungan (root crops simmered in salted meat broth).

Where to Stay

The two provincial capitals of Tabuk (Kalinga) and Kabugao (Apayao) offer a handful of simple inns and homestay lodgings. But accommodation options are very limited in this rural region, so it’s best to prepare for basic, no-frills lodgings. Tent camping in scenic village clearings or national parks like Bangan Hill is a popular alternative.

Getting There

Kalinga and Apayao are not the most accessible destinations due to the rough mountain terrain. The main jump-off towns of Tabuk and Kabugao can be reached by bus from nearby Tuguegarao. But many attractions require hiring a 4×4 vehicle and local guide to navigate unmapped backroads into remote villages. Expect long, bumpy road journeys along precipitous mountain routes with hairpin turns.

This is a summer getaway best suited for adventurers willing to go completely off-grid to experience nature’s untamed splendor away from tourist crowds and city comforts. For those craving a genuine alpine escape from the lowland heat, these two provinces deliver lush mountain scenery, thrilling outdoor adventures, unique indigenous culture, and cuisines at a wonderfully cool temperature perfect for summer.

Kendrick Tan

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