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The Many Faces of Ilocos Norte: A Traveler’s Guide

  • December 6, 2024
  • Rogelio Constantino Medina
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Nestled in the northern tip of the Philippines, Ilocos Norte is a province that seamlessly blends historical treasures with natural wonders. From pristine beaches to majestic mountains, from centuries-old churches to cutting-edge wind farms, this region offers a diverse tapestry of experiences for every type of traveler.

It offers a mixture of old and new tourist’s destination sites — you can view some old churches and houses, empanadaan, cultural treasures, museums, Malacanang of the North, white sand beaches, falls to an exhilarating experience of seeing windmills, rock formations, sand dunes with artistic stones and mirror installations, viaducts, and water parks.

As Ilocos Norte Governor Matthew Marcos Manotoc says, it may take four days to have an exciting bird’s-eye view of the province’s landscape, including a visit to Solsona-Apayao Road and the charming and beautiful town of Adams. Its “I’m IN” campaign has indeed brought attention to the forefront, attracting local and foreign tourists.

Threads of Tradition: The Pinili Inabel Center

In the town of Pinili, about 49 minutes from Laoag City, lies a testament to Ilocano craftsmanship – the Pinili Inabel Center. Here, visitors can witness the art of inabel weaving, a tradition that has earned national recognition through Magdalena “Nana Daleng” Gamayo, a centenarian master weaver.

A weaver masters the craft of “inabel” weaving
Pinili Inabel Center

Gamayo, honored as a National Living Treasure in 2012, has not only preserved this ancient craft but elevated it with her contemporary designs and uncommon techniques. Her work, characterized by its refinement and durability, serves as a bridge between Ilocano heritage and modern aesthetics.

She is well-loved by the community, having taught younger weavers to master the craft of “inabel” weaving. Her “inabel” creations exude refinement and endure the test of time, serving as a testament to her mastery and acute sensitivity to color. “Inabel” is a fabric made of cotton that is popular for its softness, beautiful designs and strength.

A Step Back in Time: Sitio Remedios Heritage Village Resort

Situated in Currimao, the Sitio Remedios Heritage Village Resort offers visitors a portal to the Philippines of yesteryear. This meticulously crafted resort, with its reconstructed Spanish-era houses and plaza, provides an immersive experience of colonial-era Filipino life.

A beach overlooking the West Philippine Sea
An old chapel
Palatable dishes

Beyond its architectural charm, the resort boasts pristine beaches along the West Philippine Sea. Guests can indulge in local culinary delights at Kusina ni Lam-Ang, savoring dishes like free-range chicken tinola, pinakbet, and the unique KBL (kamatis, bagoong, lasona) side dish.

Architectural Marvel: The Historic Paoay Church

A short drive from Currimao brings you to one of the Philippines’ most iconic structures – the Saint Augustine Church, commonly known as Paoay Church. This UNESCO World Heritage Site exemplifies the country’s unique “Earthquake Baroque” architecture, its massive buttresses a testament to both aesthetic grandeur and structural resilience.

Paoay Church
Inside the Church
The church’s structural resilience

The church complex extends beyond the main building, featuring attractions like the San Agustin Prayer Garden and the Paseo de Paoay, where visitors can explore local shops and exhibits.

Culinary Heritage: Glory’s Empanada at Batac Riverside Empanadaan

Yummy empanadas

No visit to Ilocos Norte is complete without sampling its famed empanadas. At the Batac Riverside Empanadaan, Gloria Aduana Cocson’s stall, Glory’s Empanada, offers a taste of local culinary tradition. Cocson’s recipe, perfected over decades, showcases the Ilocano values of resourcefulness and frugality.

There are several stalls in the empanadaan and one of these belongs to Glory’s Empanada, owned by Gloria Aduana Cocson, 83. Determined to help her husband raise their family, Gloria perfected her empanada recipe. Through hard work and determination, her empanada business grew and became so popular that she was awarded the prestigious “Kalipi Award” in 2003.

Gloria Cocson with the publisher at Glory’s Empanada in Batac

The empanadaan is more than just a food stop; it’s a cultural experience where visitors can observe the meticulous process of empanada-making and sample other local delicacies.

Historical Grandeur: Malacanang of the North

Overlooking the serene Paoay Lake, Malacanang of the North stands as a testament to the region’s political significance. This former presidential residence now serves as a museum, offering insight into the Marcos era through its themed rooms dedicated to various aspects of Philippine life and governance.

Built in 1977, it was originally the official residence of former President Ferdinand Marcos Sr. and family when visiting his home province. It consists of seven rooms, with each one having a theme of historical events from the Marcos era such as Study, Agriculture, Diplomacy, OFW (overseas Filipino workers), Culture, Nation Building and Family.

Cultural Repository: Museo Ilocos Norte

Painting showcasing a market scene
The Study Room
The books
Museo Ilocos Norte

Housed in a historic tobacco warehouse, Museo Ilocos Norte provides a comprehensive look at the region’s cultural heritage. Its collection spans traditional clothing, household items, and ceremonial objects from various indigenous groups, offering visitors a deeper understanding of Ilocano identity and history.

Modern Marvel: FEM Stadium

The newly inaugurated Ferdinand E. Marcos Memorial Stadium represents Ilocos Norte’s vision for the future. This state-of-the-art facility not only hosts major sporting events but also serves as a community gathering space.

It is the site of the 2024 Region I Athletic Association (R1AA) meet hosted by the Provincial Government of Ilocos Norte and the Schools Division of Ilocos Norte as well as the NBTC (National Basketball Training Center) North Luzon Regional Championship and the Little League Philippine Series Regional Finals.

The 2025 Palarong Pambansa will be held in this new stadium.

Must-Try Dining Destination: La Preciosa

For a taste of contemporary Ilocano cuisine, La Preciosa in Laoag City offers a refined dining experience. From classic dishes like pinakbet to innovative creations like their famed carrot cake, the restaurant embodies the evolution of Ilocano culinary traditions.

Owned by Pamela Palma Arrogoza, La Preciosa an Ilocano restaurant and café on J. P. Rizal street in Laoag City. Its interiors are elegant but casual and homey, and are exuding the aura of a wedding reception. It looks like a house converted into a restaurant.

Nature’s Wonders: Suba Sand Dunes in Paoay, Cape Bojeador Lighthouse and Kapurpurawan Rock Formation

Ilocos Norte’s natural landscapes are as diverse as its cultural offerings. The Paoay Sand Dunes provide an exhilarating experience for adventure seekers, while the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse offers panoramic views of the West Philippine Sea.

Meanwhile, the Kapurpurawan Rock Formation in Burgos showcases nature’s sculptural prowess, its white limestone cliffs shaped by millennia of wind and waves.

Paoay’s Suba Sand Dunes with art installations

The sand dunes of Ilocos Norte were created by the interaction of the wind, sea, and river that together cause erosion and deposition. The size of the dunes varies depending on a number of factors, including the currents, weather conditions, nature of winds, amount of sediment, and type of vegetation in the area.

The whole area spans about 88 square kilometers and is best known as a great spot for 4×4 jeep rides across the sand and sandboarding. Artistic creations are also installed along the sand dunes and arts and music festivities are held here to boost tourists’ attractions.

The Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, also known as Burgos Lighthouse, claims to be the highest-elevated, still original and active Spanish era lighthouse in the country.

The lighthouse was first lit on March 30, 1892, and is set high on Vigia de Nagpartian Hill overlooking the scenic Cape Bojeador where early galleons used to sail by. After over 100 years, it still functions and serves ships that enter the Philippine archipelago from the north and guide them safely away from the rocky coast of the town.

Situated right next to popular tourist attraction Bangui wind farm, the Kapurpurawan rock formation can be found on the rocky coast of Burgos.

 

It is known for its creamy white and streamlined limestone formations, which have been sculpted by different oceanic and weather forces. Moreover, it is a noteworthy geological formation by the beach, accessible by hiking or horseback riding. The tourist attraction was named after the Ilocano word “puraw” which means “white”, in reference to the white limestone formations formed over time.

Sustainable Tourism: Bangui Windmills and Patapat Viaduct

The Bangui Windmills stand as icons of sustainable development, providing clean energy while becoming a major tourist draw. Similarly, the Patapat Viaduct offers both infrastructural functionality and breathtaking coastal views.

Bangui Windmills
Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

Connected to the Luzon Grid, the Bangui Windmills  supply 40% of Ilocos Norte’e electricity needs. Each windmill is 70 meter (230 feet) tall, with 41 m (135 feet) long blades. It is arranged in a single row stretching along a 9-kilometer (5.6 miles) shoreline of Bangui Bay, facing the West Philippine Sea.

The Patapat Viaduct is also known as the Patapat Bridge, the fourth longest bridge in the Philippines and is located in Pagudpud. It is elevated 31 meters (102 ft) above sea level.

Paoay’s Suba Sand Dunes with art installations

It is one of the most scenic and photographed destinations allowings passersby to admire  the beautiful Pasaleng Bay and the scenic mountain view on the other side.

Let’s Talk Trade: Arnulfo Salt Refinery

Pre-colonial trade show that sea water salt is among the products brought home to the Cordillera villages by the Igorots’ trade with their Ilocano counterpart in the lowland. Pasuquin town in Ilocos Norte is famous for its salt-making refinery and is also one of the major sources of livelihood among its residents.

Arnulfo salt refinery
A staff removes impurities in salt
The whiteness is the result of a heavy purification proces and refining, designed to remove salt impurities and give salt its white color and fine texture.

Beachside Bliss: Saud Beach, 18° North Camping and  Caparispisan View Deck

For those seeking relaxation, Saud Beach in Pagudpud offers pristine white sands and crystal-clear waters. Meanwhile, 18° North Camping provides a unique blend of comfort and nature, allowing visitors to enjoy the beauty of Bangui Bay while indulging in modern amenities.

Alluring, calm beach
Sunset at Saud Beach
Palatable, affordable food
Available drinks at 18 Degrees North

The Caparispisan view deck is also becoming a famous spot for tourists with beautiful view of the sea from the top of the hill. Numerous windmills can also seen from a distance.

Luxury and Convenience: Plaza del Norte Hotel and Convention Center

Situated near many of Ilocos Norte’s attractions, the Plaza del Norte Hotel and Convention Center serves as an ideal base for exploring the region. Its blend of modern comforts and proximity to cultural sites makes it a popular choice for discerning travelers.

From weaving traditions to wind farms, from empanadas to earthquake-proof churches, Ilocos Norte offers a journey through the Philippines’ past, present, and future. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or a culinary enthusiast, this northern province promises an enriching and unforgettable experience.

A Tapestry of Experiences

Ilocos Norte is a province that defies simple categorization. It’s a land where the echoes of history reverberate through Spanish-era churches and colonial mansions, yet the winds of progress spin modern turbines along its shores. It’s a place where centuries-old weaving traditions thrive alongside cutting-edge stadiums, and where the flavors of traditional empanadas are savored against backdrops of breathtaking natural wonders.

A nice swimming pool inside the hotel

From the cultural richness of Pinili’s inabel weaving to the architectural grandeur of Paoay Church, from the culinary delights of Batac’s empanadaan to the sustainable marvels of the Bangui Windmills, Ilocos Norte offers a journey that engages all the senses. It’s a destination that caters to history enthusiasts, adventure seekers, food lovers, and those simply in search of natural beauty.

A windmill at Bangui
A fun-filled tour at Paoay Sand Dunes
“Inabel” weaving in Pinili

The province’s “I’m IN” campaign aptly captures the essence of what awaits visitors – an invitation to immerse oneself in a diverse tapestry of experiences. Whether you’re lounging on the white sands of Saud Beach, exploring the halls of Malacanang of the North, or sandboarding down the dunes of Paoay, Ilocos Norte promises memories that linger long after your visit.

Rogelio Constantino Medina

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